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Chikankari embroidery is also done on lehengas with fabrics of mulls, muslins, voiles, organzas, polyester, chiffon, viscose, georgette, polyester georgette, and net. Designs are selected in accordance with the chosen fabric.
These patterns are carefully engraved on a wooden block, before they are dipped in dyes like neel and safeda to make patterns. In turn, the designs and patterns steer the stitches, which number a multitude in the art that is chikankari.
Stretched by a wooden frame or Karchop, the printed cloth is then readied for the embroidery. As in other chikankari products, a chikan embroidered lehenga may make use of the plethora of basic stitches of the chikankari style of embroidering.
Tepchi is one such stitch common in chikan embroidered lehengas, along with legendary stitching staples like Bakhiya, Hool, Zanzeera, Rahet, Jali, Turpai, Darzdari Khatau, Phanda and Murri.
One stitch, Banarsi, is endemic to India alone and has no peer whatsoever in Europe. |