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Chikan Sarees

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Chikan Sarees

Embroidered by hands alone, chikan sarees are one for the books, rivaling those done by machines. Every wearer of these glorious raiment tips off India's deep-seated heritage in divine-like tailoring. Its cachet has even diffused to ancient Greece as early as the 3rd Century BC.

Renowned Greek travelers like Megasthenes recounted the use of flowered muslins by the Indians to awestruck fashion connoisseurs of the ancient world.

A chikan saree subscribes to the age-old art of Chikankari, an intricate shadow-work type of embroidery.

By and large, chikan sarees make use of special colorless muslins called tanzeb, bedizened by the quintessential white yarn omnipresent in all chikankari work.

Saris or not, chikan embroidery is done by hand. Patterns of different designs are stitched using untwisted white cotton, silk or rayon threads on the surface of the fabric.

Embroidering chikan sarees exploit the vast compendium of possibilities of stitching in the ancient craft of chikankari. Great as they are, the stitches of chikan sarees or any other chikankari garment for that matter, are segregated into three types.

They may be flat, embossed or Jali stitches, which creates a delicate net effect. In the end, chikan work falls back on a fixed repertoire of stitches, from which the artisan can conjure enthralling combinations for a wickedly perfect chikan saree.

Other stitches essential to the creation of such are Taipchi, Bakhia, Phunda, Murri, Hathkati, Pechni, Ghas Patti, and Chaana Patti.

Still there are more types of chikankari stitches, namely Bijli, Makra, Kauri, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-chasm, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Dhania- patti, Kangan, Rozan, Meharki, Keel kangan, Baalda, Jora, bulbul, sidhaul, ghas ki patti, and so forth.

Unassuming as its production is, chikan sarees may in fact cost someone a fortune, more than machine-embroidered counterparts.

Specialties in the city of Lucknow, chikan sarees take 10 to 15 days' worth of production per outfit, not counting in the decades of training needed by craftsmen involved.

After all, nothing comes cheap for an outfit introduced by Nur Jahan, the beautiful wife of the Mughal emperor, Jahangir.

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